Have you seen this with your dog that they bark at other dogs, cats, people or unfamiliar objects, well it is usually the result of some frustration. I once had an ear-ring lunch with some friends who had taught it was great that they taught their 10-week-old Labrador Retriever to "speak" for tidbits. Let me tell you that is was virtually impossible hear and, worse the sheer volume of its barking seemed to inhibit the flow of gastric juices necessary to digest my lunch.
New puppies between about 12 and 26 weeks of age begin start to announce that their here to strangers, owners and the territorial alarm at other animals or trying to stimulate of response from unidentified objects, odors, sounds or movements. The secret of curtailing this natural tendency is to avoid reinforcing the barking, and it usually fades away. You need to T ignoring the behavior. To a puppy, the act of vocalizing appears to be identified as just that vocalizing. Therefore, shouting at a vocalizing, vocally oriented puppy to obtain silence merely reinforces the barking.
When the barking is aimed at someone or something the dog perceives as threatening (though this is not so), the animal's interpretation of the stimulus must be altered. This process takes from a day to a few weeks.
Getting rid of the misinterpretation of threat by certain people, objects or sounds require that the you introduce the pet to these stimuli while reassuring it with good-natured and jolly (but low-volume) words and phrases. If a visitor stimulates this type of barking, the owner should approach that person and behave in a friendly manner, crouching down while demonstrating friendly trust as an invitation for the puppy to approach.
The puppy should in no way be pulled or ordered to the guest. Rather, they should be allowed to gain confidence at a natural pace. If you can get your guest to assumes the same crouched position as the you, but remains immobile and passive while the dog begins to gain confidence.
This same method can be used with a barrier between the dog and the inciting stimulus. The puppy can be taken to the other side of the barrier, whether a gate, fence, door or window, and introduced to the stimulus in a friendly manner. When this concerns other animals, more time and effort are required to obtain the involved animals and have their owners cooperate in correction. The same happy, jolly routine must be undertaken by the owners in these situations.
If this procedure does not succeed, your dogs should be stimulated between the time of dogs initial orientation to the incoming stimulus and its overt barking, followed by jolly reinforcement. If the problem seems to be caused by an odor, sound or movement, the dog should be escorted happily to the area from which these emanate and allowed to investigate, while the owner reassures it that no real threat exists.
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